Pankina (which means "Be Happy" in Australian Aboriginal), is a 45 foot steel hulled boat built by David Piper and professionally fitted out in 1989. She looks remarkably fit for her age and caters for my needs remarkably well. The intention is to cruise the waterways at will, no definitive plans, no schedule. With luck it will carry me through some of the best of the scenery around the UK, viewed from the unique perspective at the helm of a Narrow Boat. This blog is to record the experience, to share the adventure and hopefully to give an insight into life on the canals.

Thursday 9 July 2015

Going, going, gone!



An incident that I seem to have left by the wayside is probably one of the funniest, at least where I was the source of amusement. It was at one of the real bugbears, a swing bridge, of which there are a profusion on the Leeds Liverpool. As I’m sure I’ve mentioned before, the mooring points are on the opposite side of the canal to the mechanisms to open and close them. Of course single handed it means you’re stranded on wrong side once the bridge is open, so you can’t get back to the boat to bring her through. But it only takes a little ingenuity. I tie the bowline to the bridge itself, then open it. As the bridge swings open it leads the boat through, needing a little careful manoeuvring using various lines, first bowline, then mid-ropes and finally the stern line. Once the stern line is secure, on the opposite side of the bridge, it can be closed. Then all you must do is pull the boat back to you, untie it and cruise on. On this occasion a farmer had sat on his quad bike watching patiently so he could cross said bridge. He actually stopped to compliment me on the skill at which I completed the awkward task. Only for me to make an unscheduled leap across from the boat back to the bank, misjudge the length of the rope I was holding and plummet into the murky waters of the canal. (Photo: The daunting sight of the boat lift from the River Weaver - Anderton, Trent and Mersey Canal)


If you can’t laugh at yourself you’ve no right to laugh at the misfortunes of others. At least I was saved public humiliation, the farmer had actually disappeared round the corner by the time I fell in. It would have made a worthy spectacle. I’d actually looked at the length of the rope and realised it was too short, but convinced myself it would stretch enough to reach the bank. And of course it didn’t! Serves me right, I savour the advent of visitors, always expecting someone to take a plunge accidentally. Only one has so far and I’ll allow them their anonymity. Of course I do enjoy guests, whether or not the get wet. And there’ve been a few recently, both potential buyers and personal friends. The feel good factor is wonderful. Bearing in mind the number of problems that have occurred since I bought the boat, gaining pleasure from the perspective of others is crucial, otherwise I’d have deserted her long ago, capital investment or not. I can’t help but feel a bit of a scrounger though. People come and lavish me with kindness and gratitude. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not complaining, and they always leave feeling the exchange has been worthwhile. (Photo: Less daunting from the upper, canal level. - Anderton, Trent and Mersey Canal)


My route since Wigan, when leaving the Leeds Liverpool, has again taken me round through the suburbs of Greater Manchester. This time it was from north west of the city to the south, on the Bridgewater Canal, in an anti-clockwise direction. Thankfully it was a delight compared to my journey last year over the other side of the metropolis. Graced with numerous wetland areas, known as flashes; Pearson’s Flash, Pennington Flash and Scotsman’s Flash, amongst many other smaller bodies of water. The area surrounding the canal is particularly gorgeous, the only trouble being it’s all interspersed with intensive housing projects which brings out the hoards given the slightest hint of good weather. Actually that sounds awful, it’s good to see so many enjoying the natural beauty of the area, and the vast majority treat it well enough, if not exactly with the respect it deserves. Lack of understanding is the main problem, the average person is not brought up with the knowledge of how to conduct themselves around nature. I can’t claim litter to be a major problem, but there shouldn’t be any. Thoughtlessness aside there is only a tiny minority who wilfully abuse their natural environment. (Photo: Only one route out of the River Weaver, ascending the lift. - Anderton, Trent and Mersey Canal)

My route since Wigan, when leaving the Leeds Liverpool, has again taken me round through the suburbs of Greater Manchester. This time it was from north west of the city to the south, on the Bridgewater Canal, in an anti-clockwise direction. Thankfully it was a delight compared to my journey last year over the other side of the metropolis. Graced with numerous wetland areas, known as flashes; Pearson’s Flash, Pennington Flash and Scotsman’s Flash, amongst many other smaller bodies of water. The area surrounding the canal is particularly gorgeous, the only trouble being it’s all interspersed with intensive housing projects which brings out the hoards given the slightest hint of good weather. Actually that sounds awful, it’s good to see so many enjoying the natural beauty of the area, and the vast majority treat it well enough, if not exactly with the respect it deserves. Lack of understanding is the main problem, the average person is not brought up with the knowledge of how to conduct themselves around nature. I can’t claim litter to be a major problem, but there shouldn’t be any. Thoughtlessness aside there is only a tiny minority who wilfully abuse their natural environment. (Photo: Empty carriage trough at the river level - Anderton, Trent and Mersey Canal)

Since I first moved onto the canal I’ve wanted to experience the Anderton lift, a marvellous piece of machinery built in 1875 to raise or lower boats 50ft between the River Weaver and the Trent and Mersey Canal. There are two huge water troughs, each capable of holding two narrow boats at a time. Originally the tanks acted as counter-balances to each other, this was achieved by releasing water from one and allowing the weight of the other to raise it as it lowered itself. Nowadays they’re fully independent, or can be. They still tend to operate together, one lowering while the other rises, but no longer have to. Like many features on the canal, the feat of engineering is great, a marvel to see. Though I must be honest the bitching from the operators made the experience less than exciting. We were told off for leaning over the side to see clearer, sitting on the roof, walking down the gunwales. I know it may sound as if we were playing silly buggers but we were well aware of what we were doing and there was no potential danger in our actions. (Photo: Drawing level with the tourist cruiser, as it's descending. - Anderton, Trent and Mersey Canal)

I descended with my friends Pat and Simon Parker, and we weren’t exactly bawled at, but we were told off for our actions. Interestingly I returned alone (no I hadn’t rid myself of them by any nefarious means), and they were very accepting of me peering over the edges and taking photos outside the confines of the water trough. So I blame my friends entirely, serves me right for allowing disreputable looking people aboard. They spent a couple of days on the River Weaver with me, chilled out completely, and left feeling totally rejuvenated. Such is the life on the inland waterways, at least when your boat isn’t causing you problems. I spent an extra four days, doing nothing but reading and sleeping in quiet little spots along the River. There is a surprising difference between being on a river chugging along down the canal. Apart from the obvious size difference, which isn’t always true, there is a softer, more gentle periphery to your surroundings. While canals are not always obviously man made, they rarely look wholly natural. You may find rugged rush strewn edging worn path, a bridge in the distance, the route more defined. Cruising down rivers feels more of an adventure, you can’t necessarily stop just any old where. (Photo: Upper trough, supported by enormous pneumatic ram. - Anderton, Trent and Mersey Canal)


However far out of town you seem there are always passers-by on the towpath, the banks of rivers are much more inaccessible. The chances of meeting people out for a leisurely stroll, or a quiet bike ride, is pretty slim. Though saying that, we did end up running a mercy mission on the Weaver. We’d just got under way, heading back upriver when a woman started hailing us from the bank. With the engine noise below me all I heard was something about bulls and dog. Knowing there were bulls in the field I thought the least charitable thought, ‘is she really expecting me to stop because she’s afraid of passing the bulls with her dog?’ I damn near kept going. But being the good Samaritan that I am, I turned round, tracked back, turned round once again and made an impromptu landing to see what was wrong. Fair enough, she wasn’t totally overreacting. She was worried about the bulls, but that was the least of her problems. Her weimaraner had gouged her leg while her and a friends were out with the dog on a cycle ride. They’d taken a wrong turn, came a long way off course, so were lost, knackered and concerned about the dog’s injury. (Photo: Part of the Audlem thirteen locks - Audlem, Shropshire Union Canal)


Let’s be polite and say they’d got themselves in a bit of a pickle. I must be honest and admit I wasn’t best amused, bemused but defused would be more accurate. So I let Simon deal with them while I held the boat steady. Two bikes, two women and a dog later we were loaded up and set sail again. Hey come on, I thought cap’ns were meant to scowl and cast gloom on everyone’s day. I did at least provide a first aid kit, and they were very appreciative of the make shift veterinarian service. They also really enjoyed their boating experience, they’d never been on a narrow. So it all turned out quite an exciting adventure for them. And Caradog, Pat and Si’s dog, fell totally in love with their bitch. How sweet! To be quite clear, I handled the whole situation without being outwardly belligerent, what I thought and what I expressed were vastly different. And I didn’t mind really, my natural cynicism at people’s behaviour can be quite scornful but I’m more than capable of keeping it to myself. Jeez, I sound like a miserable old fart. Whilst I can be, I put in considerable effort when needed not to offload that tendency onto others. (Photo: Double decker arched bridge - High Bridge, Shropshire Union Canal)


Most things I like to be open and above board, especially when it comes to selling vehicles. Having put the boat up for sale I was worried about an overheating issue with my engine. To me it seemed the initial stages of the cylinder head blowing. Yep, the same problem I had last year, when I got ripped blind by, ‘Canal Cruisers Co,’ in the town of Stone. Thing was, despite charging me for 15 hours of labour for a four hour job, they failed to check the condition of the cylinder head itself. It should have been skimmed, as a matter of course, and checked for cracks. They failed in these most rudimentary aspects of the job. And I’m too honest for my own good, people viewing the boat would have it explained, that I thought it necessary for a new head gasket, and the head to be skimmed. Faced with this daunting prospect it put the first few off straight away. So I decided not to go into detail, to merely inform them of the rise in temperature after a few hours. Now that sounds much better. Everyone who’d looked had really liked the boat, but my honesty and detailed explanation frightened them off. Fact was, I didn’t have the money to get it done, I could barely afford the expense of advertising. The very next viewer agreed to buy it. (Photo: Cutting and tunnel hewn from bare rock - Nr Gnosall, Shropshire Union Canal)

I was to deliver Pankina to Droitwich, a journey that would prove one way or the other just how bad the overheating problem was. Being paid a non-returnable deposit meant I had cash to sort out any problems that may occur. ‘May occur,’ I ask you. Sods law, like so many others, rarely goes in my favour. For the first few days the overheating got no worse, it was how I described at the point of sale. The last of those days I travelled eleven miles and negotiated twenty-one locks (single-handed, a new record for me), which gave me confidence that it would get me to Droitwich OK. No such luck though, the very next day I could barely run for an hour without the temperature creeping up. Yet I still coaxed it on, never allowing it to run too hot or for too long. Needless to say it steadily got worse, and starting drinking coolant at a rate of knots. My choices were limited, whether or not I could nurse it all the way there I could never, consciously, fob them off with the engine in such a condition. So I limped into Wolverhampton, where I now sit awaiting, not just a new head gasket, but a whole new cylinder head. Funnily enough, the complete job, parts and labour will only be the same sort of price I got conned with last year. (Photo: Living close to nature - Approaching Autherly Junction, Shropshire Union Canal)

What a bind, but it can’t be helped. This boating lark has certainly not been kind to me over the last year. Or rather this boat hasn’t. It’s a lovely boat, but so much needed sorting. In a better frame of mind there are a couple of the things I could have done myself rather than pay someone to do, but physically it would have given me grief. I have done a lot, and paid the price in aches and pains. Age and injuries aren’t being too kind either, and there’s nothing I can do about that. If I’d had a motorbike to work off my frustration it might have eased my despair. There is so much about living on the canals that I appreciate, but deceitful sellers and rip-off traders are so numerous you invariably get taken advantage of. So many boatyards skim extra off work on the boat if they organise work for you. It doesn’t matter that you’re already paying for their facilities, if they call in a welder or electrician for you they’ll add a percentage on top of the tradesman’s charges. It’s like a license to print money, they know your options are limited, so unless you can generate a decent income yourself, or be self-sufficient, it’s hard to maintain your vessel. (Photo: Watching the workers do what they do best - Oxley, Staffs and Worcester Canal)